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Where did I Leave My Footprints? Lin Xian-tang’s Journey to Europe

Publication date: 28 Nov 2013
Author: Ou Yi-han |Staff member of the Archives of Institute of Taiwan History

Lin Xian-tang (1881-1956), one of the figures in Traveling in Time Exhibition, was the leader of the Lin Family from Wufeng, Taichung. On May 15, 1927, he took the Fengshan Ferry from the Keelung Port with his two sons Pan-long and You-long starting to travel around in Europe and America. They spent 378 days visiting ten countries including the United Kingdom, the United States, France, Italy, Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Belgium, Spain and Switzerland. In his diary, Lin Xian-tang wrote of what he had seen in his journey and hoped to broaden Taiwanese’s knowledge of Western culture. Now, let’s follow Lin’s steps by reading The Diary of Mr. Guan-yuan in 1927 to visit Europe!

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II. Lin’s Footsteps in Germany

On October 23, Lin Xian-tang visited the old Palace in Berlin, Germany. At a small room in the old Palace, there was a pair of vases, which were presents that the Qing government gave to Germany to express remorse over Clemens von Ketteler, the German diplomat who was killed in the Yihetuan Movement. Other Chinese items like jade articles, porcelains, folding screens in that small room were probably the plunders that taken by German army in the Yihetuan Movement. In addition, a portrait of Wilhelm II’s mother, who was Queen Victoria’s daughter as well, reminded Lin Xian-tang that Wilhelm II and George V were cousins. However, even though they were cousins, nobody knew if George V had sent anyone to express concern over Wilhelm II when Wilhelm II was exiled to the Netherlands. Actually, marriages of convenience among European countries were mainly for political purposes. If one side could not gain any benefit from the other, their relationship would end. As a result, such political marriages between royal families were the marriages not for love or family but for diplomatic purposes.

Later on, Lin Xian-tang went to see Wilhelm II’s residence. There was a writing desk where Wilhelm II wrote a document to declare war on Russia, France and the United Kingdom in the First World War. Lin Xian-tang sat on Wilhelm II’s chair for a while thinking of the things happened to Li Hong-zhang, a Chinese politician. In fact, when Li Hong-zhang traveled around in the United States, he had sat on the chair belonging to George Washington. However, people laughed at Li because Li was regarded as a loser, but the chair he sat on was a chair belonging to a hero who succeeded. “Today I sat on the chair belonging to a tragic hero. I think no one will laugh at me,” Lin Xian-tang wrote in his diary.

On the next day, Lin Xian-tang visited German Bundestag to see the works of art there. Lin said, “The paintings show sceneries in different constituent states. The marble sculptures show the spirits of love, justice, force, knowledge and courage. In fact, German Reich government pursued militarism. However, the paintings in Bundestag are not related to wars. On the contrary, the Great Britain is thought to be a democratic country, but most of the paintings stored in its Parliament are related to wars.” Lin was puzzled. (see Figure 4)

Figure 4: The Diary of Mr. Guan-yuan on October 23, 1927.
(Source: The Diary of Mr. Guan-yuan, the digital archives of the Archives of Institution of Taiwan History)


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